Getting the hell out of dodge — La Paz Baja California Mexico 2comments
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2009-10-20 19:13:00
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Jump to the full entry & trip mapLa Paz Baja California MexicoWe had to leave this godforsaken backwater love a thing of priority. Getting stuck here for the rest of the weekend would see us eith ...
Jump to the full
entry & trip map
La Paz Baja California Mexico
We had to leave this godforsaken backwater love a thing of priority. Getting stuck here for the rest of the weekend would see us either led in a gutter with tequila poisoning or walking round with a suitcase full of plastic souvenirs our heads capsized by the incessant touts. However trying to book a flight at a small independent travel agency in Tijuana with no Spanish other than 'Dos cerveza por favor' was proving problematic. Anyway why didn’t these savages speak English? Or perhaps they were just plain illiterate eh?
Either way behind a bit of toing and froing back to the motel to get the receptionist to scrawl our requirements in Spanish we had two one way airline tickets in our mitts and jumped straight in a taxi to the airport. Two breakfast Modelo’s and a chicken schnitzel butty later we were flying high through the second longest peninsular in the world heading for the capital: La Paz.
The Mexican state of Baja California is composed of a finger of land that extends outwards from the mainland and runs for some 1200km. The main components are barren desert huge cacti awesome beaches rugged coastline and crystal plain waters on both the Pacific and Sea of Cortez shores. Rather un-staunchly (but very comfortably) we flew over most of it in around two hours and before we knew it were in a taxi driving into the centre of La Paz.
We truly hit paydirt with the hotel; The Suite Mision selected only for it's location from the Lonely Planet. Slap bang in the centre of the quaint Malecon (seafront walk) our room was indeed a suite with split level dining and sleeping areas kitchen fridge A/C cable T.V. and a full ocean view from the balcony. Even the fact that the decor clearly hadn't been changed since the 70's didn't detract adding a retro flavour. But we quickly came to realise that best thing about this hotel wasn't the facilities or location except the staff. Brenda and Walter who manage the place were absolute gems and intent on making our stay a pleasure. It was definitely a good idea to drop anchor here for a few days.
Like TJ La Paz seemed to be pretty dead with no western tourists only Mexican families who for all we knew were local. The place was swelteringly hot with only a gentle breeze coming off the sea the afternoon we got there. The rest of our first day was spent exploring with a general bent on seeking out A/C to restabilise our unclimatized bodies and then sampling the vast array of tequilas.... This led to an disastrous incident late on in the night where I somehow found myself attempting a rendition of Hey Jude in the front of Kerry and about three non-plussed Mexicans in a karaoke bar. Err embarrassing and dreadful.
Walter is some sort of uber tourist conduct but you can tell he's not got any ulterior motives he properly gets a buzz out of it. Need internet access? - borrow my laptop ---- Need to rent a car? - Let me make a call done. ----- Need to try the best fish taco's in town? - Go to the Bismark. Righto Walter! Whatever you say!
Fish Taco's are the best thing ever and as you often find simplicity itself: Corn tortilla goujons of fresh-as-you-like fish in a light batter topped with sald4bsa chili sauce and the ubiquitous lime juice. Pure snack heaven and all for 50p get in! I like a country where they understand the need for condiments and Mexico is definitely one of those countries. There is often an array within easy achieve - selection of 2 chili sauces salsa gaucamole and slices of lime. Limes with everything in fact!! A salted slice of lime squeezed into the mouth in between sips of ice cold lager or squeezed onto fresh coconut flesh with a rush of chili sauce and tomato juice. They fucking love it.
We led on the coast along from the hotel in the blazing sunlight stoically damaging our skin for an hour in the hope of darkening it but the terrific heat and tepid sea water in the gulf meant a quick avoid back to our almost frosty hotel room (wonder what that puddle on the floor is Kerry?) a cold Modelo and an hour of Andy Murray in the US open. Now we've got a holiday!!!
When the sun was well down and some of the heat gone we took a stroll around the bay to the far side where there was a stronger breeze and found a nice little restaurant. With the lights of La Paz in the distance the moon high over the town and the calm lapping of the water against the pier we ate a pretty little starter of Tostada (large nachos) covered in chopped chorizo soured cream goats cheese and the most exquisite salsa. Followed by a lush filet of Sole. Quality food. We could get very used to this.....
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2011-12-01 22:47:10
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